Tachometer VW Type 2 Bay Window 1967 - 1973
One of the coolest new Bay Window Products to hit the scene this year, these 6000rpm electronic rev-counters are made to look just like the original gauges in your Bay Window and fits perfectly in the spare pod that was used if you had an accessory clock.
This rev-counter can be used on non-VW powered Bay Windows with four, six and eight cylinder conversions!
VW never offered a rev-counter for the Bay Window… But Just Kampers does!
Original Style Bay Window programmable Electronic Rev Counter These rev counters have a grey face to suit all VW T2 Bays from 1967 to 1973 One of the coolest new Bay Window Products to hit the scene this year, these 6000rpm electronic rev-counters are made to look just like the original gauges in your Bay Window and fits perfectly in the spare pod that was used if you had an accessory clock.
One of the coolest new Bay Window Products to hit the scene this year, these 6000rpm electronic rev-counters are made to look just like the original gauges in your Bay Window and fits perfectly in the spare pod that was used if you had an accessory clock.
This rev-counter can be used on non-VW powered Bay Windows with four, six and eight cylinder conversions!
VW never offered a rev-counter for the Bay Window… But Just Kampers does!
| Country of Manufacture | United Kingdom |
|---|---|
| EAN/UPC | 5060661047191 |
| Width (CM - Packed) | 13 |
| Height (CM - Packed) | 11.5 |
| Depth (CM - Packed) | 13 |
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VW T2 Bay Window (1967 - 1979) Air-Cooled Petrol 1600cc, 1700cc, 1800cc, 2000cc LHD, RHD
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SuperbAbsolutely delighted with this.
It's fairly easy to find wires on the back of the dash pod that you can extend across to the supplied connector for ignition supply, ground, backlight.
The hard part is getting the tacho signal from the back of the bus to the tacho.
The instructions say to use screened cable to avoid electrical interference.
So on my RHD early bay, I used a 5m length of guitar lead off ebay, cut off the jack plugs and soldered 1/4" spades at the back (for the coil and ground connections), using lots of heat-shrink for mechanical support.
I ran the cable through the grommet on the left of the firewall, and along the left chassis rail, through a new hole (and grommet) left of the handbrake lever into the front panel void (near the airbox drain tube)
From there, up behind the cabin air ducts towards the a-post and follow the existing loom (cable tied) along to the dash pod and connect to the supplied connector.
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Great productLove this, it looks like stock vw. A little tricky to fit in the dashboard. I took the top of the dash off and then could get access but still tricky but ok with some patience
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Close to Excellent But . . .. . . not quite there. The paint used for the dial face and inner silver ring has too coarse of a flake. This is easily resolved with a finer flake. The color of the dial is a little dark in comparison to the original speedometer and fuel gauge. Please index your tachometer slightly low and to the right inside the opening or you may end up with a halo of light shining through the bottom right quadrant. This is because of the angle of your view from the driver's seat necessitates that you not center it exactly as you might think while on the work bench.
Functionally, the tachometer provides a little bit of that charming British jerk to the movement, like an old Jaguar XK 120. As most Type 1 engined Bay bus drivers know, you will not be using the tachometer to avoid the redline (4,800 rpm) whilst spiritedly powering out of corners at Brooklands. You can, however, use the tach to optimize the factory choice of gear ratios. VW chose these ratios to allow you hit the horsepower peak in the lower gear and shift right into the torque peak of the next gear up. Should you happen to double-clutch, the tach will allow you to nail exquisitely smooth downshifts. Will be getting the late bus tach for my '78 2.0 fuel injected Type 4 engine when it is available.Posted on
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The dogs b******sThe pic above really does the tacho justice. It is beautifully engineered and detailed to match the OEM gauges exactly.
An easy install in a bay once the instrument cluster is out (but that is itself a nightmare). Well worth the effort though.Posted on
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